Beloved Gargnano
These two old friends sitting on a bench in Gargnano hang on our bathroom wall. Each time we look at them, we transport to an essential part of ourselves, to our place of feeling lovely. Liora started the love affair over 20 years ago and it was the first place she wanted to share with Kim. Gargnano (on Lake Garda) is top of our list of soulful destinations, and the place we come to once a year.
Imagine how our anticipation grew after six hours of driving, when we finally arrived at the north side of Lake Garda beginning in Salo. We drove fast, on our right the lake and its many elegant boats glimmered, on our left a fecund combination of cypress and olive trees, bougainvillea, plumbago and hibiscus everywhere. The cicadas were out in full force again. Eventually, we stepped out of the car to the familiar smell of the lake and an immediate desire to jump right in it.
Not all of Lake Garda is like Gargnano. The landscape is divided between a flat touristed area at the bottom of the lake, and the majestic narrower part on the North East. Gargnano sits right where the majesty starts, just as the mountains get high in exactly the right proportions. You will never forget the moment as you stare across the lake and the awesome presence of Monte Baldo starts to shape in the haze. That resounding uncompromising vista of mountain dropping into water, that sense of timelessness that comes when nature has reached perfection, that peace that descends when you are surrounded by something transcendent.
Monte Baldo
There is more. Gargnano (made up of three villages: Bogliaco, Villa and Gargnano) sits along and is intimately connected to the water of the lake. This is gorgeous water: soft, translucent and healing. Hot enough in summer to lie in all day, and also refreshing to jump into at night. Depending on the light, it shifts from a shimmery turquoise to a soft aqua colour, and at dusk it turns to mercury. A swim as the sun sets is like swimming in an exquisite oily silvery mass. The perfect way to start your evening, before your aperitivo and dinner. What’s more, the water is accessible to everyone. This is not the exclusivity of some parts of the European coasts, where it costs to get a lounger near the sea. The beaches open up in small crevices on the lake, between villas of great beauty, and you can jump in the water at any point as you walk through the villages, from café, to Osteria or your hotel. Quickly you learn, that you have to have your costume on you at all times, as a swim is a possibility almost everywhere you go.
Gargnano also sits at the base of an exquisite mountain range, full of hanging villages, rivers and waterfalls. A day trip up to villages like Magasa, Navazzo or even Cima Rest will give you endless views over the lake, and then into the mountains, clear streams and lush vegetation. If you make it to Cima Rest, you will find hikes which take you even higher to viewing points where you can see the Alps beyond. If you don’t feel like hiking you can just sit at the Snack Bar Tavagnu which hangs off the edge of a small valley, and serves enormous bruschetta. There is even a frightening array of elfs and fairies to buy in the little restaurant shop, sold proudly by its eccentric owner.
Lady Eccentrica at Snack Bar Tavagnu
The natural beauty of this place is only one part of this experience, as it's compelling draw lies in the layers of architectural history, the sense of time, the unquestionable deep culture of the place. The shores of Lake Garda are punctured by Limonetta (ancient Roman constructions for sheltering lemon trees). You can hear Goethe’s poetry wax lyrical about these shores, and a quote from DH Lawrence sits on the outside of the Albergo Gargnano, left from his visit there. The Venetian style villas on the banks of the lake, make an architectural tour out of an evening swim, and the fishing boats dock on a jetty which sits just next to a Byzantine chapel with a faint fresco on the outside wall.
Villa harbour
Gargnano harbour
Byzantine Fresco
One is also aware of the presence of 20th century fascism, as Mussolini’s last republic was in Salo 20 minutes down the lake from Gargnano, and his holiday villa in Gargnano – Villa Feltrinelli - has now been renovated into one of the most exclusive hotels in the world. Equally, the amazing Danunzio villa is nearby in Toscolano, which has the most bizzare collection of self-important symbols we have seen. So history writ large is all around you, making a trip both cultural and hedonistic.
But ultimately, it is the small history of the place, the families who live in Gargnano and pass their hotels, Osterias, hardware shops, bakeries, delis, and more down the generations. It is the faces we recognize, and have seen age over twenty years, the children we can see growing up, each year a little taller. The grannies who always come to the same beach at the same time with their grandchildren. The aged, tanned bodies of the elders in the village who stand knee high in the water and gossip, the images of bent woman sitting on the benches and staring at the water, or hanging out of their windows fanning away the hot air. This is Gargnano. A place that mass tourism still hasn’t been able to unseat. This is why we love it.
Gargnano caters to a wide range of travellers. You will find one of the smartest hotels in the world here, and some of the simplest Albergis. Here are some of our where-to-stay tips. For more upmarket tastes, the Villa Giulia is a perfectly luxurious place to stay. The hotel has been run by the Bombardelli family since 1955. It has all the detailed grace and style you would expect of an Italian villa by the lake, a beautiful garden which sits right on the water, and genuinely attentive service. There are rooms in the main house which have epic views of the lake, or more modern garden rooms which open out to the garden. The Villa Giulia is a truly choice find and we highly recommend a visit.
Alternatively, there are good value options on the lake. The Villa Residence La Limonaia, sits right next to the Villa Giulia, and it's garish yellow exterior shouldn’t put you off. Make sure you get the top floor apartment which is the only one with an outside space of its own and has a perfect view of Monte Baldo and the lake from the balcony. Our favourite value option with lake view rooms is the Hotel Garni Riviera, which is owned and run by the charming Gianfranco Scanferlato. Gianfranco makes you feel like his friend instantly, speaks fluent English and is a wonderful source of local knowledge. Room 32, the best room in the hotel, was our location for our visit this year, and it had four different double doored views over the lake and the mountains. Higher up the hill, with an enclosed garden, pool and olive grove is the Residence Fondo La Campagnolo with a view over the town. Alternatively, in the smaller village of Villa, the Hotel Baia D’Oro is a traditional romantic waterside option.
Hotel Garni Riviera
View from Room 32
Night View onto Pizzeria from Room 32
View from Fondo La Campagnola
Hotel Baia D'Oro
Accommodation aside, we have selected a list of must-dos when you are in Gargnano. The village of Villa is smaller and inhabited by mostly locals and is a five minute walk away from Gargnano. It is worth spending a lot of time there. In the morning, go to the beach next door to the Baia D'Oro hotel, which is intimate and has the best view of the lake and Gargnano. Then we recommend lunch at the Osteria Al Porto Di Villa which wraps itself around the small boat harbour at the centre of the village. This was an old family house that has been repurposed downstairs. The Famiglia Bommartini have owned the place for decades, and the customers have remained the same for 22 years, at least. All the regular locals gather there, jump off the harbour wall into the lake and swim on the pebble beach which sits just in front of the Osteria. After lunch, sit in the shade of the lemon trees, and spend the rest of the afternoon playing scrabble between swims. The food is basic, but the Persico Salvia (sage fish) and spaghetti di pesce di lago (fish from the lake) is delicious. If you are looking for smarter food, on the other side of the small Villa harbour is Osteria Civico which is worth reserving ahead. Smarter still is the Hotel Baia D’Oro restaurant which has it's own jetty for the boats of the Milanese weekenders, and is a perfectly romantic setting for dinner.
Osteria Al Porto Di Villa
Famiglie Bommartini (owners of Osteria Al Porto Di Villa for decades)
Persico Salvia (Sage Fish)
Beach by Osteria Al Porto di Villa
Beach by Osteria Al Porto di Villa
In Gargnano, start with your morning espresso at the Café Nuovo. Its where the locals start their day and expressively exchange news and views. For lunch, go and have the Melanzane e Grana (aubergine and parmesan) pizza at the Restaurant Pizzeria E Lago on the jetty next door. Its worth returning to the Cafe Nuovo for the afternoon, and starting that session with an ice cold espresso shakerato. For dinner our best recommendation is the restaurant Miralago. The gentle owner and his wife produce wonderful unpretentious food, inspired by the lake, and they have an excellent wine and grappa selection. Order the Coregone the (fish from the lake) grilled or the pasta of the house. We also suggest trying the local Michelin starred restaurant – La Tortuga – for fine dining, which is air conditioned and has no outside tables.
Further afield there are two restaurants worth driving to. The first is the Pizzeria Nablus which sits high above Gardone and has a sweeping view of the lake. It is a simple building, but the forty year old mother dough produces revelatory pizza, perfectly balanced between squidgy and crispy, and had us analysing every textured mouthful. The smart local crowd were a clue to the category of pizza connoisseurship that we had stumbled into. Go here!
Local Vespas Parked Outside Pizzeria Nablus
La Sosta in the nearby village of Cecina is equally unmissable. Don't go there if you have strict dietary requirements, as the two options for each course are not up for discussion. But its an unforgettable, totally authentic, traditional culinary experience, and the portions are huge. Everything is lovingly made by the mama in the kitchen (now widowed by her deceased charismatic husband), even the meat is home cured.
La Sosta Ravioli
Gargnano has it all. This small corner of the lake has welcomed us like it's own, and has captured our hearts. Each time we go we feel tempted to settle inside the picture postcard forever. Do come and visit us there.
The Unterste
Where to Stay
Villa Guila - luxurious and unpretentious, family run since 1955, it's an old Italian villa and sits on the lake
Villa Residence La Limonaia - self catering apartments next door to Villa Guila on the lake, good value, ask for the top floor apartment
Hotel Garni Riviera - best value, in the town and on the lake, room 32 is the best room with wrap around mountain and lake views
Residence Fondo La Campagnolo - self catering apartments with pool beautiful garden and view over the town
Hotel Baia D’Oro- traditional lakeside option
Where to Eat
Miralago - family run, delicious local menu inspired by the lake, excellent wine and grappa list, order the Coregone the (fish from the lake)
La Tortuga - Michelin starred fine dining option
Pizzeria Nablus- sweeping view of the lake, forty year old mother dough produces revelatory pizza
La Sosta - traditional food lovingly made by the mama in the kitchen, unmissable for the most local eating experience
Where to Hangout
Caffé Nuovo - local hangout for morning coffee and news, spend the day reading and playing scrabble, order the ice cold espresso shakerato
Osteria Al Porto Di Villa - regular local gathering spot for coffee / simple lunch, jump off the harbour wall into the lake for a swim
